It is most likely a top sealer and since the residue has cured on top of a glossy tile it can only be removed with a solvent made by the sealer company and even then it can be a chore. If the sealer was made by "Tile Guard" available at most Lowe's Stores or  "Aqua Mix" from the Depot. Those or any top sealers are designed to be installed only on the grout with a foam brush or other sealer application tools.

Immediate removal of overlay with a dry cloth is always important because sealers left on to dry are a problem and the more the time passes the more difficult they becomes to remove.  If the sealer was Water base or Silicone base, try Tile Guard's "Extra Strength Tile & Grout Cleaner". Let it soak into the streaks for 10 minutes or so and then scrub with an SOS Pad. If the sealer was Acrylic based, try Tile Guard's "Heavy Duty Coating Stripper".  Tile Guard's help line is 360-733-9029 I hope this helps you Joyce, Armen Tavy

The best place to start is in the focal point of the room or the furthest point away from the exit to the kitchen or room. Starting in a square corner that is also parrallel with cabinets other walls and center islands, if any, makes tiling easier.

There are 4 that I will speak of. The first is the simplest which requires the least amount of cuts. A 4" x 4" Marble "Dot" is installed at the bottom corner of each 20" tile. This offsets the next 20" tile and the Dot and Tile sequence is repeated over and over again. It is also referred to as a "step design". The next suggestion requires the cutting of one corner, two opposing corners, or all four corners of each 20" tile to accommodate a single Dot, two Dots in every 4 tile sequence, or four Dots with all 4 corners cut to make Octagon Tiles. If only one corner of each tile is clipped the Dot is surrounded by four 20" tiles, each with one clipped corner. This uses a lesser number of Dots in a repeat pattern or you can make it even less by skipping one whole 4-tile sequence. The sequences can also be staggered. Each Dot must be back-buttered before installing and 4 of my TAVY Spacers inserted straight side down around each Dot to keep them from "tweaking".

Get yourself a piece of graph paper, or make your own on a larger scale, and draw dots in the sequences I have mentioned to choose the repeat design that appeals to you. Read what I instructed in the last post #12431 about the installation techniques for these larger format tiles. If you are tiling over Cement Backerboards, you must follow precise installation instructions for them. If you are going directly over a wood subfloor, vinyl, or a concrete slab, there are necessary precautions there as well. If you are uncertain about any procedures, please ask me for appropriate help before you install tiles. The next day is always too late. Armen Tavy

Roman Man: Sorry I missed your return question on the 23^rd in reference to my reply post on the 22nd. I am still unclear about some of your statements and questions.

1.                  If you remove all the mud and membrane, there should be a wood frame not concrete. Please explain. If it is not wood and the shell is all formed concrete, and we know that concrete in itself is not waterproof, Hot Mopping” or other waterproofing membranes must be used, i.e. Laticrete’s #9235 (etc.) which is also in 3 coatings, with a gauze membrane between the first two. It is a bit expensive, as are all the waterproofing systems.  Traditional Roman Tub Drains are expensive and specially designed, however less expensive “Push-Down” “Pop-Up” drain plugs can be substituted. A Roman Tub drain frame assembly must be installed before the ”Hot Mop” sequences and temporarily “plugged”.

2.                  You cannot “Hot Mop” it yourself since it requires a truck tow-able trailer with a Roofer’s  “Hot Pot” that is fueled by propane burners that heat the tar upwards to 450 degrees F. The procedure takes considerable training, for there are (HOT) dangers.

3.                  The Felt from the sides of the tub might be the first layer of roofing felt which should have been a minimum 15lb rating. “To clear the air” here is the procedure. The Technician must first pitch the tub bottom, and they usually use roofing shingles for this. He then Hot Mops the shingles and lays a layer of 15lb felt into the hot tar. He then “Hot Mops” that layer of Felt and adds the second application of “Hot Mop”. The last layer of felt is installed into this Hot Tar and the last application of “Hot Mop” is mopped in. right after it solidifies, the tub or shower pan is filled with water to conduct a 48-hour leak test. No leaks? Okay to go to the next step. Galvanized wire lath is hung into the sides of the tub and across the tub’s bottom, but is never secured with fasteners inside the “wet area”. The wire is folded over the top edge of the tub and then only secured with Non-Corrosive fasteners to the outside vertical walls of the tub. A “scratch coat” of mortar is applied to the walls and floor of the tub. A “brown coat” “finish coat” is added on top of the scratch coat and screeds are used to achieve a plumb, or contoured flat plane, or, as desired. The thickness of the walls is generally 2”. Thinner is entirely up to you. Unlike shower walls, tubs are subjected to a great deal of pressure from water and bathers.

4.                  Natural stone tiles require much maintenance and Porcelain substitutes are a sensible alternative. You should also be aware that hot water in a Roman Tub tiled with stone or ceramic cools faster than hot water in manufactured fiberglass tubs. You may not be the happiest bather if you like your water to stay "really hot". Imbedded “Hydronic” heating systems for walls is a consideration as might be “low voltage” D.C. heating coils/mats.

5.                  Scratch coat the bottom to protect the “Hot Mop” and Gal. Wire. Mud the bottom after you set the side-walls. Great care must be taken when tiling the bottom of the tub, especially near and around the drain. 100% of the tile bottom’s must be imbedded into the “Liquid Latex Modified Tile Setting Mortar”, with no pockets of “air”. Mold can grow in stagnant water trapped under tiles in “air” spaces/pockets.

6.                  I don’t understand, “Set the balance of the tiles”. My assumption is that everything is removed and made new. If not, how do you intend to “repair” what you have compromised?

7.                  Drains can always be plugged with flat rubber discs designed for the purpose. There are also expandable drain inserts available at plumbing supply outlets.

8.                  Much thought has gone into this reply and if it does not help you, turn this task over to someone with (a great deal of) previous experience.  Always here to help, Armen Tavy also at: spacerman@tavytools.com or personal cell 860-559-8469, 7/24/365.

Glad I could help. Slate is neat but not my favorite for a kitchen floor either. However a “faux” slate made by “Rex Tile” has subtle ridges. Travertine is beautiful, providing it is installed by an expert and then sealed. When sealed properly, quick wipe-ups prevent stains. Any "acidic" liquids will dull any polished "stone" and any such spills must be wiped/washed immediately, even if they are sealed. Faux Porcelain travertine tiles are the least maintenance and in 18" and 20" are spectacular. However, the larger the tile the more difficult the installation. Back buttering (very thin coating) the tiles just before installation and skim coating the floor before spreading a quality Modified Thin-Set mortar with a large toothed trowel is a "must". It is important for novices to use proper tiling techniques when installing floor tiles of any size. All the time and work, in addition to the money, is a terrible thing to waste.

Until experience is gained, a newly set tile must be lifted on occasion with a "screw driver" to observe at least 85% mortar transference from the floor to the back of the tile/s. “Air pockets” under tiles makes them extremely fragile. Leveling each of these larger format tiles and controlling tile "lippage" is essential, and I do not hesitate in plugging my own TAVY "Tile Puck" as the best tool for both jobs. Small Grout Joint widths of 1/8" look great and are easy with my TAVY Spacers. “Oooooos” will be the norm at resale time. You can find these tiles in many shades of beige and browns to match or compliment your new granite. The lighter your tile’s color the larger the look of the room.

 Rectified Porcelain Tiles are modestly priced today making them competitive and affordable, but they are more difficult to cut because of their large format. Larger wet saws or 4" angle grinders with continuous dry diamond blades (not cheap ones, but blades in the $40 range) are the best tools to cut them with. (You do get what you pay for) A “steady hand” and Eye protection using an angle grinder spinning at 11,000 rpm is a “must”, as is dust control. A tile “Sanding Stone” is required to smooth cut edges. Stones must be constantly rotated in your hand as they are used to prevent “trenches” (grooves) in their surface. Dip the stones in water often while using.  Armen Tavy

This is a tough one because I am not exactly sure what you are trying to describe. Let me tell you what it sounds like. The "Roman Tub" was tiled over "mud walls" (what you are referring to as concrete) as well as a "mud base" and the tiles on the vertical walls of the tub were installed before the bottom of the tub was set with "mud" (concrete) and then tiled over. The tiles on the walls were encased by the "mud" bottom and the tiles that were installed on it, which you have removed.

The "mud" bottom is usually installed last because the floor needs a pitch for quick drainage and installing it last eliminates the need for tapered cuts on the walls if they were tiled last. Removal of the entrapped tiles on the walls was difficult without breaking them and visible remnants are still protruding up from the "mud" base. I do not believe you have reached the membrane as yet, or it is possible that you have removed tile and the "brown coat" and have reached the "scratch coat". If this is the case, additional membrane would be of no value, unless you have already compromised it. The tub should have a "Roman Tub Drain" and it should not be compromised by an inexperienced tile setter. The best advice is to remove all the tiles with the least amount of damage to the cement walls or the cement bottom. Do remove tiles around the drain but use caution to prevent damage to the finish. Duct Tape on the metal will help.

If all I have assumed is correct, you would have the same issue tiling the tapered walls as the first setter would of had, had he not completed the tub bottom last. Careful removal of all protruding wall tiles and cleaning out a "trench" to allow for easier to make larger wall cuts to match the pitch angle is something you should consider. Repairing open trenches and "mud" base damage can be done with a Portland Cement Patch after the walls are tiled. Red-Mix Portland Cement Patching Material should be available at most tile retail outlets. This entire project is not a job for an amature tile setter. All tiles must have 100% mortar transference to their backs after installation (also prevents air pockets where mold can fester) and the only mortar that should be considered for this tile installation is "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar". If you have removed the entire "brown Coat" on the walls, a new + - 2" "Brown Coat" must be installed before tiling. Need more help? Please Ask. Armen Tavy

H/P Tile is long gone and finding any tile is highly unlikely. Best suggestion I can give you would be to "steal" a couple of tiles from somewhere else in the room. If you have a tiled wainscot, and the wall behind the Toilet Tank is tiled, removing the toilet or the tank top would give you access to several potential tiles to do your repair. Of course, you would have to "break a good tile" to get behind others for safe removal.

Removal of tiles would have to be preceded by grout removal around the tiles you would like to "steal". Unless grout is removed first, the pressure exerted during a tile removal can chip adjacent tiles. As much grout as possible should be removed before trying to pry up or tap out a tile for repairs, and an old-fashioned beer can opener is a great tool to start with followed by a utility knife. The other option is to be creative and replace the broken tiles on the counter with decorative replacement tiles. It may require several more to get a balance. Tiles in the tub area are also available at your design discretion and they could be replaced with complimentary "Deco" Tiles, or tiles of "color". Armen Tavy

Greetings to you as well. I enjoy hearing from people from all over the world via this forum, and it is interesting when they tell me how far I reach with my advice from Plant City Florida, USA. The furthest documented visitors so far have been from, Alaska, Hawaii, Japan, Philippians, Canada, England, Denmark, India, Malaysia and Australia.

Gasque, you can stain the grout but not the tiles. You can paint the tiles, but you might not like it. However, you could easily tile over the tiles with my TAVY "Thin-Skin" Underlayment and “we would both be happy”. Specially designed snap in vinyl trim molding, available in many colors, would make the slight additional height transition manageable.

It is also interesting when you say you have grown apart from your original color scheme, and as such have fallen into a category of homeowners that I am trying to interest with my new Tiling System that is like no other in the world. I call it, "008" Easy To Eliminate, “Magic” Floating Carpets of Tile”. It is brand new, in stock, but not officially available to the general public as yet. It is a tiling system that if used, allows anyone to remove their tile floor in minutes instead of hours, and without the usual noise, dust and mess. Tile again the same day, the same morning.

It is so unique that it cannot be detected by the most knowledgeable in our Industry. Tired of a color or style, just remove it quickly and re-tile again, and again, and again, or any time it suits you, or as I say,  "plan on it every 5 or 6 years". Planning ahead for tomorrow is for the “creative and discriminating” home decorators among us. No one should stay "married" to a floor tile "forever". Change is good for everyone!

 Need more information or help, write again. Armen Tavy

I am glad you found it as well. Re-inforcing the floor is only necessary if it is deflecting when walked on or a weight placed at the center of the longest span deflects the floor more than the grout can withstand. Rare is the bathroom floor that has a length long enough to prove or disprove the deflection test. For instance, in a 30 ft long span, a 300 lb weight (or two persons totaling that weight) placed at the center point will deflect a wood subfloor. If the deflecton exceeds 1 inch, then the grout can fail and tiles can and do come loose or even crack.

Try this experiment. Fill a large glass with water to the brim and walk across the floor passing by the glass, if water spills out more than a couple of drops, you have issues with instability aka deflection and blocking from below may help or not. If the installer laid cement backerboards down and did not secure them properly, all the blocking in the world won't help. The warming pads would excelerate the drying time for the grout but is not a likely suspect for your problem. As a professional, your installer should have checked your floor for the maximum allowed deflection before he installed the tiles.

Cheap mortars and faulty installation techniques used to install your tiles could cause loose tiles that can also cause broken grout. Lightly bounce the handle of a metal kitchen knife on all the tiles in the room, especially around the ones with broken grout, to listen if any are hollow sounding, if so, they are suspect for your problems in addition to deflection/s, if any. It is also helps me to reach more people if we know how you found our site so we can concentrate on those links. Armen Tavy

If you lived in parts of Europe years ago, they probably butted the tiles and let everyday dirt fill the joints. Very unsanitary, which explains the need for some grout in the joints between tiles, because there are no tiles that can be butt together tight enough to eliminate the (sanitary) need for grout. Some tiles have built-in tile spacers eliminating the need for spacers like mine unless you choose to make the joints larger in width. 4 1/4" and 6" bathroom wall tiles were automatically spaced. Now there is an important downside when attempting to butt tiles. They must be of "perfect" sizing in order to acheive a uniform looking installation.

Tile sizing perfection has fallen by the wayside the past few years and it's ,"buyer beware" sizing now that may vary as does shade variation. If the variation is less than a 1/16", then my TAVY Tile Spacers do a great job even though this slight size variation exists. Tiles with larger tile variations should be avoided "like the plague". TAVY Tile Spacers have the smallest spacer size in the world, 1/32", available by direct order from "Contractors Direct" in Connecticut or Mid-State Trade Tools in Wisconsin. This small joint is usually reserved for Marble and Granite Tiles, providing they are not from unknown sources (and very cheep). Linoleum is a great floor covering, but does not get the Oooos and Ahhhhs and needs replacing more often. Epoxy Grouts need less maintenance and are a good option if that is your main concern. Armen Tavy

When a tile sounds solid on both sides of a crack, then the odds are, that that tile, was probably installed correctly, but split in two because of the crack. As you original read in the older post reply, any crack over a 1/8" and exceeding a 1/4" is suspect to other structual problems, not necessarily implying that the home will collapse, but certainly deserving examination by an expert builder or city/town inspector. These tiles are unsightly now an repairs are in order, however, if new tiles are installed over old cracks without resolving the problem, the new tile/s will crack as the old did, over and over again. TAVY "Thin-Skin" to the rescue. Armen Tavy

Please read what I have just written in post # 12421. Armen Tavy

Please, I did not mean to alarm you or others, but on the "dark side" serious cracks in flooring can be  indications of serious structural problems, including the possibility of "sink holes". Test all your tiles on both sides of all the cracks with a metal object or by bouncing a golf ball on them. If the tiles on both sides of the crack or cracks sound "hollow" (when the ball bounces), the odds are that it is only a "poor" installation and not necessarily structural.     Read Post # 12422 to get more insight on these issues.

If your tiles were/are Porcelain Tiles, many installers have yet to learn the techniques necessary to install them correctly. Believe me when I tell you that I get very concerned with these same issues coming up question after question and I am seriously considering a TV program of my own, or CDs that are guaranteed to be informative, accurate and in complete detail from start to finish. My reputation as an expert will be my personal "Stamp of Approval" and the photo that you see when you click on "The Tile Man" in the header of this forum, is really me and I take pride in the 48 years of "Quality Experience" I have in this Trade. Armen Tavy

 "IF" after reading more of my older post replies you still have queries, please write again. There are no simple yes or no answers because of all the "IF"s. Much thought has to go into the way I write my replies, so you and all can understand what I am saying.

It depresses me to hear these stories, because there is no need for this kind of complaint if all the rules (simple at that) are followed. It is not rocket science, and not that difficult; what is difficult is for would be installers to read simple directions and follow them. Your backerboard installation was at fault or the installer did not use the correct trowel and mortar or mortar application and fasteners to install it. Once the Backerboards are installed they need to be cleaned and "prepped". The correct mortar for the tiles selected must be properly mixed and spread with the correct trowel for the tiles. Many tiles need "back buttering. Many times it is a combination of all the causes in the same installation. The easiest way to avoid these failures is for the customer to be informed, so he/she can analyze the installer’s techniques or lack of. Asking the would be Installers for job references is the first hurdle and why customers are afraid to ask for them, and actually call all of them, is beyond my comprehension, especially when hundreds and many times thousands of dollars are at stake if the installation should fail.

I am sorry I sound so curt, but if you review all my replies in the past 16 months, you will read about the many tiling disasters by so called professionals, because they fail "to read up" before "they tile down or up, or sideways". How do you solve your problem? First thing is to remove one or more of those problem tiles to inspect the substrate as well as the mortar and the back of the tile/s. If the substrate is as "clean as a whistle", the entire job is lost. If the tiles that have broken grout joints around them sound hollow when tapped on with a metallic object or a golf ball, the proper mechanical bond to the substrate is most likely at fault and the entire installation is lost.  If the backs of the tiles are "almost as clean as a whistle", then the wrong mortar or wrong trowel tooth design (1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4") was used to spread the mortar to set the tiles, etc, etc. Tiling as seen on the popular TV Home Improvement Programs imply that it is so simple that anyone can do it. They make so many mistakes it makes me "shudder".

Once grout fails for any of the above reasons, it will continue to fail, and no "Band-Aid" treatment will last. Calling your attorney or taking the installer to small claims court may be your only option now. If you inspect your tiles after removal and want more explanations, by all means come back and tell me what you see, or do not see. I will try help you as much as possible. Armen Tavy

This small area is a simple repair with a thin ceramic tile underlament membrane that can be covered with one or more layers of thin-set mortar until the level is the same as the surrounding area. Holding a straight edge or 4 ft level flat over the higher area and extending it over the patched area will indicate when they are at the same height. My TAVY Thin-Skin" can do this job easily, because I designed it to go over any surface including vinyl, however, it is sold only in 100 sq ft packaging. It is still an economical solution, and any like product will still probably cost you between $55 to $75. Install TAVY "Thin-Skin" in the area where you removed the vinyl. level it with one or more layers of mortar (dry in-between layers), then install the "Thin-Skin" over the entire floor area, including the repair.  Please take the time to read old replies, as far back as you can, to learn many of the necessary techniques about tiling that I have written.  Armen Tavy

You could have tiled over it with any of the many tile underlayment membranes on the market including mine, TAVY "Thin-Skin. However you have started the demo and there is no short cut other than "bull work" to remove this "Mud Set" tile installation. The old fashioned way was the best, but not the easiest to remove. You could fill in the less than 10 square feet with cement (over wire) and use thin-set as a bonding agent painted on the edges of the old slab just before filling with new cement. You would have to level the surface by hand or "dam" the area an use a self leveling Portland Cement mix to get back to the original height and level surface. A primer (available with the purchase) is required. This can also be used at the cut edges of the old slab.

There are several tools that can help. Rent a "60" lb Demo Hammers (Hilti); use manual "Wrecking Bars" (3 foot long) and a sledge hammer, "Wonder Bars" (flat black bars with curled tips used to remove nails), "tin snips" and heavy duty work gloves, or a bunch of friends invited over for a "Demo Party", but don't call me, because I am retired. Good Luck, Armen Tavy

Sorry AJ, the 10" format was short lived and is probably non-existent anymore. Your best bet is to browse on line. Armen Tavy

As per our phone conversation this morning and for the benefit of our readers, here is a short version of our conversation since I did not save a copy of my written reply.

This installer was inept and unfamiliar with the problems that can occur when tiling over plywood subfloors. Besides not fastening the plywood properly, the type of plywood (the top layer of skin, AC, BC, CDX, etc) and the compatibility of the thin-set mortar to the plywood was the main issue in the failure as may have been his choice in Thin-Set Mortars. It is not your fault but it is his, especially if he presented himself as a professional tile setter. If tile setters in Canada require Licensing it would be in your favor because portions of licensing funds are usually set aside to compensate customers for contractor ineptness. After viewing your photos and your comments there is no doubt in my mind that your suite would prevail in a court of law in Canada or the USA.

A tile installed on an uneven floor can crack if "rocks" on a hump. If the tiles are of small format and "flow" over the/a hump, although it would look rediculous, it probably would survive. I would be interested to know why anyone would consider tiling over an uneven floor without first resolving the problem, it is not that difficult to correct. Armen Tavy

Your request is noted for all to see, and I will make a few inquiries for you as well, but don't get your hopes up. Armen Tavy

Anyone who hires a "professional" tileman to install a ceramic floor should expect no less than "perfection". No excuses are expected, allowed or accepted.  Armen Tavy

I can't begin to give you advice until you tell me where you live, how thick is this 4,000 sq ft of lightweight concrete and is it over a suspended wood floor? If it is over a suspended wood subfloor, as it would be iif it is lightweight concrete,  4,000 sq ft of 2 cm thick granite would top the scales at appox + - 68,000 lbs or 34 tons,  not including leveling, installation mortar and anti-fracture systems.I would not want to live or walk in the area under a floor like this unless it was properly engineered. It would also take 4 men to lift, skim coat and then set the 5' x 5' sections onto a setting bed. and then manipulate the slab to level as neccessary.  Lightweight Concrete must also have a wirelath base to help hold it together as well as a high "PSI" formulation. There are many more questions because you have given very little to go on. Armen Tavy

your only other option is to undercut the baseboards. This is a simple job done with the right tool. Fein Multimasteer or a Dremel Multimaster. The Fein is the original and heavier duty and the Dremel is new and costs 1/3 the price of the Fein. They both work the same and have basically the same attchements. The one you need comes with the tool and it is a wood undercut blade. you use a flat wood block the that is thick enough that is placed against the baseboard and the tools blade is placed flat on the block and pushed into the baseboard,at a 45 to 60 degree angle, cutting it quickly. Move the block along as you cut and you can do the job in no time.It will save you hours of work and re-painting. The Fein can be found on line at www.contractorsdirect.com or the Dremel is sold in all the Lowe's Stores at about $99. When making the block, gauge it so you allow for your underlayment, if any,  and thin-set mortar. You wont be sorry with this tip. Armen Tavy

I will preface my answer with the assumption that the grout used was a cement grout and not beyond its expiration date and it was properly stored and properly dry-mixed (boxed) before the correct amount of potable water was added to achieve a thick creamy consistency that was thicker than "ketchup"; the mixture was thoroughly mixed by hand with a margin trowel or a slow speed electric drill with a paddle that does not introduce excess air into the mix for at least 2 minutes and allowed to "slake" (sit un-touched) for ten and then re-mixed without adding any more water.

I will also assume that the mix was spread properly and allowed to set long enough in the joints (plus or minus twenty minutes depending on the temperature and humidity of the room) before it was washed with a Hydra-Sponge that had about 80 % of the water squeezed out of it before it was used to wash the grout using single diagonal strokes. All that remains now that might be "culpable" is the quality of the installation, which includes the minimal amount of "deflection" of the tiled substrate that I will also assume was "tile-able" by industry standards. 

If all that I have assumed is true then all that is left is "OE" or "Operator Error", which is usually the case. Miss Sue, I don't mean to be un-kind by assuming it was your mistakes that caused your problem, rather then the product, but 98 times out of a hundred, that is the case. The "red flag" here is the failure of both sanded and un-sanded grouts. Please Review all that I have said, then give me additional information so I can stop assuming and arrive at a just conclusion to resolve your problem. Armen Tavy

I would have stopped him as well. The fear here is that the mortar trowel lines may be visable thru some truly transparent glass tiles. the simpler solution is to knock down the high ridges of mortar slightly with a flat edge of a trowel so the lines are not visible when the mosaic sheets are installed. Armen Tavy

Not to knock another man's product not knowing anything about it, but the word "gypsum" in its makeup scares us. I will try to find the time to review comments about it, but until then I have to admit that I am uncertain. Armen Tavy

"Needle in a haystack". Pretty and probably glass. Glass tiles are beautiful and they are "bombarding" our industry today and with it comes the installations that fail because of the unfamilularity with installation techniques required to install many of them. Armen Tavy