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question Brian 
Jan-31-2004 23:10

I have added a bathroom to my home and plan on laying tile. My question is should I lay tile first or install my cabinets first?

Dear BRIAN: Tile first, then cabinets, has always been my preference for bathrooms. This provides the added security of a floor that resists minor leaks and water-damage. Of couse, if the cabinets are already in place, you don't remove them to do tiling underneath. You do consier the point, where the tile meets the cabinet, as a wall and include a perimeter joint, caulked...not grouted.
Jan-31-2004 17:48

I've gotten tow different answers to the question "can I tile over paneling between upper and lower cabinets in the kitchen? If I can, what prep steps do I need to do?
Dear :

If this is wood paneling then I guess the answer could be both yes and no. Personally, I would remove it and put up a proper backer board, with my preference being cement board in a kitchen. If you leave the paneling up it must be rigid and smooth with no ridges. If it is ridged then it will have to be wire meshed and screeded with mortar to remove all of the ridges. After this you can use thinset to apply the tile. If it is completely flat and well secured then scarify the surface with a sander and sponge. Use a two part polymer thinset mortar that is compatible with the paneling material (I'm assuming it is wood).If you remove and replace with a drywall or backer board, you will be able to use a mastic directly over the board. Make sure you leave the final joint where the tile meets the counter and where the tile meets the cabinet free from cementitious grout. These two joints should be filled with caulking. Sometimes the answer is it can be done but it is not the best application one would suggest for the optimum scenario. paddy
Jan-31-2004 17:36

hello,I'am wanting to tile two concrete steps in my back entryway leading up to a landing entering my steps have a bullnose finish slanting inward. what is the best way to tackle these steps.

There are many stair tread tiles on the market that have an appropriate edge detail to tile the tread. The inclined riser is also not a problem. The tread tile is cantilivered over the lip of the tread by the thickness of the riser tile. A few companies you may want to check out are Dal Tile, Natucer, and Marazzi. Each of these companies make good exterior rated non-slip tile specifically for stairs. paddy
Jan-31-2004 16:17

We are looking for ideas for a tile bar, it will be angled with 3 sides showing to the front. We want the front to be in ceramic tile. We want ideas for the pattern. The floor will also be tiled in front and behind the bar, tile ideas for that also, thanks.

Style and design ideas depend alot on your lifestyle and the architecture of your house. The front of the bar could be made from mosaic tile and have a mural like picture or an abstract composition called a rosette or carpeta in the industry. You could do the bar in "trencadis" which translates as broken tile technique and look to the works of Antonio Gaudi for inspiration. You could clad the bar front in diagonal set 12" slate, marble, or granite ceramic tile renditions. You could do a classic black and white checker board in any size tile 2",3",4",6" etc. You could frame each of the three sides with a small 4" square tile border and infill the field with the same or contrasting tile set on the diagonal in a larger perhaps 12" size. There is also a new rhomboid shape from Crossville Ceramics which I just saw at Surfaces that is one of the handsomest tiles I've seen. You could also look at their metalized series of tile as this would be very retro and contemporary on a bar. Not to mention how easy the maintenance would be. I hope it is obvious that I could go on for pages with design possibilities. But hey that is the fun and the reality of ceramic tile. If you want a mediterranean themed room, a traditional room, a contemporary loft look, sleek, rustic, formal, monochromatic, colorful, dramatic well as you can see I CAN go on and on. You really need to go to your ceramic retailer and look at the plethora of tile that is available. Pick what you fall in love with from a size, color and texture point of view and then ask the talented staff to come up with some layout design options for your space. Good luck and go out and have a blast looking. paddy
question Jim G 
Jan-31-2004 11:59

I want to install 12" ceramic tile in a walkout basement right on top of the slab. The area is heated but the floor is always cold ( est. temps. winter 38-45, summer 60 degrees F). I'd like to use a thickset adhesive to help level out minor variances. Are there any additives I should use due to the temperature range/fluctuation?
Dear JIM G:

The fluctuation in temperature should not effect the mortar once it is cured. However, the initial cure time or the first 72 hours requires temperatures over 50 degrees F and under 100F. Temperature will have adverse effects on mortar in either condition whether it is too cold or too hot. Mind you your summer temp is barely there so better leave this until the crazy days of summer. I would use a self levelling mortar first to level out the variation in the floor. And then go down with a mud bed or thickset installation. And if you want the floor warmer, I would consider looking into one of the many electrical under tile mats that are on the market. You could check out Warmly Yours right on the home page of it even shows just how thin and easy this solution is in the image. I have a similar system (NuHeat) installed in all of my bathrooms and there is nothing more wonderful than my toasty warm ceramic floors and all for pennies a day. paddy
question vera 
Jan-31-2004 11:32

what is the best brand to buy/rent for cutting 12x12 floor tiles and 12x17 wall tiles? floor is diagnol. we bought a $200 wet saw from home depot and it didnt work to our satisfactory.
Dear VERA:

Thought you might find this interesting. This is the URL for an interesting article on several ceramic tile wet saws with descriptions of what they do and the size of tiles both straight and diagonal cuts they are capable of handling. Many appear to be MK Diamond brands. It is a great brand as is Target I also like Rubi Saws but if you do a Google search using "Wet Saws"+tile you are likely to find several articles similar to the one above. paddy
question lauren 
Jan-31-2004 10:16

if you could please call me back at 954 274 7265 i am in need of tile work in my home i have approx. 1100 sq feet looking to lay 18 or 20 inch tile on a diagonal. if someone could give me a call asap for an estimate i'd appreciate it greatly .... thank you, rico and lauren

You need to post this on the message board and list your home area. I know this is a global village but from your area code it would appear you're perhaps in Florida and that's a little far from Vancouver or Montreal or even Georgia, HQ for the TILE DOCTOR. However even if we were close, The Tilemen don't do quotes over the internet or for that matter over the phone and I think your best bet is to call some local ceramic tile or floor covering stores and ask for three comparative quotes. Mind you alot of contractors do dial in to the site and you may be lucky. If it was my 1100 sq. ft. though I would want recommendations from the industry associations such as the National Tile Contractors Association at or the Tile Council of America at Then again it is your 1100 square feet and your peace of mind. I wish you the best, :-) paddy
question Meticulous 
Jan-31-2004 08:31

First, thankyou for taking the time to offer this website. Alot of very valuable information and your patience in taking and answering questions, weel, I thankyou. Now, here is what I have. First of all, I'm getting ready to tile my kitchen. All cabinets are removed and everything is exposed to work. My floor from the base up is, 2x10 floor joist. On thop of the floor joist is 3x4"x11" planking randomly spaced up to 3x4" apart. These boards are run on a diagonal. On Top of these diagonally run boards is 5x8 plywood. The plywood is nailed only where it goes over the floor joist and those nail are not long enough to go through the planking, plywood, and into the floor joist. In addition, I did have a roll of some type of linoleum flooring that was loose in spots. I decided to remove (scrape) it up. I found that before the linoleum was installed, roofing felt had been glued down to the plywood (or that was actually part of the rolled linoleum). In removing the linoleum with the scraping tool, it gouged into the plywood. I figured that where the tool dug in I could repair those voids with thinset I would be using to set the backerboard. My question(s) to you are: Since the plywood isn't nailed clean through to the floor joist, can I go ahead and screw it down (using 2 1x2" screws). And if so, how many, how often, just where it meets the joist or the whole field? Do I want to put down the membrane that I see in your posts or do I want to put down hardibacker, utilicrete, 1x4" or 1x2" or both? I will be installing 1x4" porcelain tile in this project. Thankyou!!

Thanks so much for your kind comments. It is truly our pleasure to try to help anyone out there as best we can. First the best way to install the plywood sheet over the planking is to laminate the sheets to the subfloor with construction adhesive leaving a 1/8" gap between each sheet which is filled with thinset to edge glue the plywood. (I am telling you this so that you can make an informed decision on whether you would like the protection of an anti-fracture membrane incorporated into your system, which will depend on how the plywood was originally installed). Fasten the sheets of plywood every 6 inches making sure you hit the joists wherever you can (length of these fasteners should equal about three times the combined thickness of the subfloor and underlayment.) The field fasteners only need to be slightly longer than the combined thickness of the two layers. Make sure the nail or screw heads are sunk below the top surface. You only need one CBU and for floor I would use the 1/2". Leave a 1/8" gap around the perimeter of the room when laying the CBU to allow for expansion and follow the manufacturers recommendations precisely regarding seams and fasteners. Now, go to the Schluter site bannered on this site and read about Ditra Matt. This is one of the anti-fracture membranes you may want to consider. Measure the deflection in your floor once all layers are secured and make sure you have a rigid enough floor for ceramic tile. The max is L/360 but should be up to L/780 if your tile is larger than 12". Also most floor tile is around 10-12mm thick which is 3/8" plus. You indicate that yours is 1/4". This may be common for a small mosaic porcelain and would be suitable but I'd question it for a larger format floor tile. Hope this helped. paddy
question dr walace 
Jan-31-2004 06:34

what size of a bead of adhesive is to be applyed under the tile for istallation ,1/4" cer. tile x 12"

NO BEAD OF ADHESIVE... ADHESIVE IS NOT CORRECT ...these tiles most commonly are set using a combed cementitious mortar bed with a 1/4" square notched trowel.
question Sandy 
Jan-31-2004 00:35

I've layed tiles as a backsplash in my kitchen. Now I need to grout. What I need to know is how to grout around the wall outlets.

Turn off the electricity?... kind of important.
question Vincent Howard 
Jan-30-2004 21:03

Need help locating replacement tile. Information on back of broken piece: "ceramica", "S. BIAG..." (broken off there) Also has a picture of a castle. Any help is appreciated.

It's a Brazilian company group... Company Name: Irmãos Biagi S/A - Açúcar e Álcool Faz. da Pedra - PO Box 2 Serrana - Cep 14150-000 Phone (16) 3987 9000/(16) 3987 9019
question Ian 
Jan-30-2004 13:10

I am preparing to tile my kitchen floor and have read your archives and found a lot of usefull information, but I am unsure in what to do with my situation. I have 1" OSB over the I shaped 12" engineered joists that are 24" O.C. This is where my problem is. Everyone seems to have 16" O.C. with less subfloor thickness. Does my subfloor thickness make up for the joist spacing? Could I put down concrete backerboard over that and be fine? Floor height is an issue. I was also wondering what thickness of backboard to use. It comes in 1/2" and 1/4", and from what I have read it offers no structural support, so would either size work the same?
Dear IAN:

There are only a few industry accepted ways to install tile over 24"O.C. joists. The Tile Council of America detail F149-03 only recognizes EGP (Exterior Glue Plywood) subfloor and this is in residential dry areas only. The OSB regardless of the thickness is likely to be problematic if moisture penetrates through the grout in your floor. The moisture will permeate through the cement board. The OSB swells and the movement will effect your tile installation. Second a single one inch layer of subfloor is never as rigid as two layers. Again for plywood the TCA recommends a 23/32" EPG subfloor layer with 1/8" gaps between sheets, under a 19/32" EPG underlayment layer with the same gaps between sheets. Other recommendations include maximum deflection of L/360 of the span measured under 300lbs concentrated load. To achieve this cross-bracing or solid blocking may be required under 24" O.C. spacing. Next any underlayment fasteners should not penetrate through joists and perimeter expansion joints must be used and field expansion joints if the room size indicates this requirement. The TTMAC (Canadian Tile Assoc.) has one other approved method which includes an uncoupling system. The Ditra Mat by Schluter (bannered on this site) would give you this uncoupling (isolate the tile from the structures movement), therefore an effective anti-fracture membrane and additionally if installed with their Kerdi Matt could be used as a water-proof membrane to protect the OSB subfloor. Deflection must still be within perameters mentioned above. And as per the TTMAC recommendations should not exceed 1/480 at the midpoint of the span betwween the joists. Visit the Schluter site above and look into the Ditra Matting recommendations as it may be the solution and would keep your height gain to a minimum. paddy
question Tony 
Jan-30-2004 12:40

Thanks for the repsponse to #6238. One last question (for now)...I tried putting down a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood, and some thin pieces of 1/8" wood to simulate the thinset and Ditra and then put my sample tile on top of that to judge the height and it appears to be too high of a transition to the next room. Although its going to be a difficult and dirty task, I am going to crawl under the house and add some 2x6 joists under the floor between the joists (which are currently 4feet apart) so that the joists will only be roughly 16" apart. Hopefully this will help with the floor deflection. Given this scenario do you think I should go with 1/4" or 1/2" Hardibacker for the 18x18 porcelain tile? Will Schluter's Ditra still be necessary if I use the Hardibacker?
Dear TONY:

I didn't say you need to use cement board. You would need plywood sheeting sub-floor, not just tongue and groove, below either 'Hardibacker' Board or 'Ditra' matting. My best recommendation, in this case would be the plywood and 'Ditra', but it also wouldn't hurt if you tried some 2x6 between the joists reinforcement.
question Barbara  p_member 
Jan-29-2004 23:08

We are installing ceramic tile in our kitchen. Should we be removing and then remplacing the existing wood molding/baseboards before installing the tile? Thanks.

Yes, you should remove and then replace the moldings. Do not tile tight up to the wall... leave a perimeter joint without grout. Caulk this joint and replace your molding, with a 1/16" gap to the floor, caulk this also. This will allow your floor to expand without damage and eliminate sound transmission into the wall and other rooms.
question Bob 
Jan-29-2004 22:51

Is their a particular type of tile that I should use for slip resistance in a shower room?
Dear BOB:

Definately and unglazed tile. The ultimate is an unglazed tile with a raised surface tread. NOT a stone-like split-faced type of tile, but a raised tread. This selection is often a mosaic tile 2"x2" to allow sloping to the drain.
question Reid 
Jan-29-2004 15:05

what are some more heavy-duty alternatives to backer-board? i'm looking for something to be used in a public park restroom facility. the goal is to find something that can withstand heavy abuse ( case a giant falls into it, in case a kid decides to kick it, etc...). what's the difference between Schluter-DITRA and Hardie backer?
Dear REID:

The most heavy duty alternative would be a full mud-bed installation, c/w 2" mortar and reinforcing wire. You could let this cure and apply your tiles using epoxy mortar and grout. PS. Schluter DITRA is a membrane used for either anti-fracture protection or with Kerdi as a waterproofing membrane. Hardie Backer is a wall board made from cement commonly called a cementitious backer unit or a CBU. The two products are completely different.
question Tony 
Jan-29-2004 00:38

Thank you for the response!!I saw the info on question #3577. I have no idea why they constructed the floors this way, but it is causing quite a dilema. I don't want the tile to crack but I also don't want to increase the height of the floor too much since the kitchen transitions to the living room hardwood floor. Do you think the 3/4" marine/exterior grade plywood will be a better solution than cement board? Will this create to much of a step from the kitchen to the living room after the thinset, Ditra, and then tile are added? Thanks in advance?
Dear TONY:

I have deleted the confusing response. I believe this is your only choice. Yes, better than cement board. You have the final decision, considering the floor and movement/deflection. With your exisitng solid beams, tongue and grove, the additional plywood and 'Ditra' should work well. Also, you have the option of including transition profiles... GOTO:
question Ray in Walnut Creek California 
Jan-28-2004 16:13

Does the temperature inside a house have any effect on porcelain tile installation? My house is under construction and there is no heat in the house. The inside temperature of the house is fluctuating from anywhere between 35 and 50 degrees. I have the subfloor prepared and ready to go but am concerned that the colder temperature in the house may cause damage to the tile after it's set.

I thought Walnut Creek was in Idaho? I guess it's like Springfield? - i.e. several States has one? All such cementitous materials are recommended to be applied at temperatures abover 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) and Below 100 degrees F (38 degrees C) for first 72 hours.
question Tony 
Jan-28-2004 13:12

I am planning on installing 18x18 porcelain tile in my kitchen (17' x 11'). I have an older home which has a subfloor that consists of 4x10 joist beams that are 4' apart with a 2x6 tongue and groove subfloor and it would be extremely difficult to add additional joists to make them 24o.c. In an earlier posting two suggestions were made 1.) apply 1/2" cement board and then a 2" mortar bed. 2.) apply 1/2" cement board and then apply Ditra matting. Option #1 does not work for me because my kitchen floor will transition to hardwood floors in the living room and a 2 1/2" + jump in height would pose a severe tripping hazard to say the least. Option #2 sounds more practical, but can I use just the Ditra as an underlayment without the concrete board so I don't get such an increase in height from the kitchen tile to the living room hardwood? Also, since my subfloor in tongue and groove do need to apply any type of slip sheet between the floor and the thinset?
Dear TONY:

Are you sure that's what we said???? There's some confusion... you have a very unusual construction, outside the recommended industry substrate composition for ceramic tile installation. I would not suggest either #1 or #2 options. Do I understand you correctly? You have 4 feet between your very nice joists and this is bridged with 2"x6" tongue and groove (trampoline gully). This is not acceptable for even a Cement Backer Unit or 'Ditra' matting.... both require a plywood sheet sub-floor. I would recommend that you sheet over the entire floor with 3/4" marine / exterior grade plywood, over the tongue and groove, then use 'Ditra' matting, as per manufacturer's instructions.
question Sal Ganellio 
Jan-27-2004 21:21

We are building a new home and want to install ceramic tile floors in the foyer, kitchen, hallways on the first floor, laundry room and all baths. We'll selected 14 x 14 and 12 x 12 tiles. We're not sure which installation technique should be used, "wetbed" versus "wonderboard". We've been told the "wonderboard" products of today are much better than past products and provide a high level of strenght and rigidabilty. Installing the "wonderboard" over tin set and screwing down the wonderboard will save time and money over the laborous "wetbed" method. What installation type is better overall for strenght and durability and why?

First, you should determine what is the thickness of your subfloor is and the spacing of the joists. If the Subfloor is less than 5/8" and/or the spacing is wider than 16" o.c. you may have to add more than a 1/2" wonderboard. Especially, with the 14 x 14" tile this is quite a large format and it cannot withstand any movement. If you have a normal floor with 5/8" plywood and 16" o.c. joists then I would go with the wonderboard, if not you may want to consider the mortar-bed. It will create a more stable substrate and give proper load distribution and support for the tile. Good luck, DK.
question john 
Jan-27-2004 16:01

hello, I used some foam tape weatherstrip on the perimeter of my tile installation in order to maintain an expansion joint there because of a fear that thinset might be sqeezed here. Is it alright if I leave the strip in or do you recommend me to remove it.
Dear JOHN:

Good idea John... should not be any problem to leave in place.
Jan-27-2004 07:42

I have an Italian tile with a variable width grout line. Do I use spacers at the narrowest points?
Dear :

Sounds like an irregular / natural scalloped edge, designed to create a controlled irregular appearance... yes, spacers at the narrowest points is correct.
question Mike 
Jan-27-2004 06:12

I am tiling over the terrazo floor in my house. Should I treat the terrazo with anything before I start tiling?
Dear MIKE:

The floor needs to be sound... also clean and free from all coatings and sealers. First step will be to strip the floor using standard floor finish strippers. In addition,you it may require you to do a light sulfamic acid washing. Eventually, you will need to sprinkle water onto the surface and see it being absorbed.
question ron webber 
Jan-26-2004 16:11

Hello tileman, I have read your site regarding grout removal for larger jobs and you usually recommend the fein tool with a blade or a grout grabber to do this work. Well here is the thing. I bought the fein tool with a carbide blade to remove the grout and the blade just weared down to nothing after a couple of runs on the grout. My question to you is it because I didn't use a diamond blade or is it something else. I really don't see how they can market that thing for grout removal when it pulls this on you. Also the grout joints that I have to remove the grout from are only 1/16" wide of which I am sure makes the problem even worse. your help is much appreciated.

I know exactly what you mean. Of course, grout is designed to stay and constructed to withstand chemical and physical assault. Replacing of OLD grout can sometimes be as simple as the promotion of the equipment suggests. Also, poorly mixed or badly hydrated grout is also an easier task....considering it is already sanding out and can often be scraped out with a finger nail... something described for me is a legal depositon just this week. It's a tool mostly for helping to replace the odd tile or two, not remove grout from the whole installation. Diamond is better than corundum layered or carbide tipped, but I also have never thought that 1/16" joints are practical to remove. This is one of the reasons why I NEVER suggest that wall tile installations have such small joints. I believe that 3mm (1/8") joints, like you find in mosaics are the best for ALL wall tile installations. Without a satifactory joint, rennovations are impossible and you end up scoring tile edges and generally deciding that the best method of grout replacement included tile replacement and then wall replacement. REALLY, unless it is correcting a weak joint or only a couple of tiles, you should really replace the whole installation.
question Chris Caldwell 
Jan-26-2004 15:47

Dear Tileman, I have been given two schools of thought on how to deal with sealing the area where my tile floor meets the 4" high threshold for my walk in shower. Basically a 90 degree angle where grout will crack and allow water to penetrate. I am redoing the floor at this time and will be installing a "Warmly Yours" heated floor. These are the two schools of thought I have been provided: 1) Go with epoxy grout vs. putting down a membrane ($120 and a little more difficult to work with but maintenance free/waterproof). Also, I'm thinking a membrane may negate the whole compounding sandwich effect required to prevent grout cracks, etc (or is this a situation where the Ditra system may work well?). Or perhaps just put a short run of membrane (some kind of waterproof barrier that can create a 90 degree angle) just where the floor meets the shower. Basically form the 90 between 5 inches of the floor and the entire 4 inch short wall, lay down heated floor mat, thin set and tile. 2) The heated floor people said to just put the membrane on top of the backer board, then lay down electric mesh, followed by thin set, etc. They claim I shouldn't worry so much about bonding between layers at the top of the sandwich. As long as the sub floor + thin set + 1/4" backer board is well bonded and stable that I shouldn't have any issues - that the strength comes from the total thickness and non-bonding between one of the layers shouldn't compromise the strength. Thank you in advance for your thoughts on how to approach this issue.

I would recommend putting down a membrane, it is the only true way to make sure it is 100% waterproof. Also, either use caulking or a prefabricated movement joint at the 90 degree angle. The membrane should comply with ANSI A 118.10 which means it is a bonded membrane. Ditra of course is one such type of membrane but Schluter recommends putting the heat mat down first then the Ditra matting over top. This way the heat mat is protected from water and if ever a tile was cracked it can be removed without damaging the heat mat. Your welcome, DK.
question colin kelly 
Jan-26-2004 14:24

thank you for the prompt answer on my previous question. What do the arrows on the back mean?

That is the direction the pattern or texture of the tile should follow, so have each consecutive tile in a row point the same direction. DK.
question colin kelly 
Jan-26-2004 11:10

I have received my order of 5 boxes (100 each)of Italian field tiles from Cerim Ceramiches. I opened one box and noticed that on the back of each tile is a number between 1-12. Also, an arrow is on the back of each tile. What do these symbols mean. Thanks, Colin

The numbers on the back are production mould references and are not related or significant to the installation.
question Ken Z. 
Jan-25-2004 17:05

Great service, Tile Man! I am installing 12x12 & 6x6 inch porcelain tile (Pavé Sichenia) in a home entryway. The thickness of the tile is about 1/2 inch. I am trying to match the tile height to an existing oak nosing that is at the top of a stairway coming up to the entryway from the level below. The thickness of the oak is 3/4 inch. Considering the thickness of the tile, this leaves 1/4 inch to be used for the mortar and whatever backer/filler that would be appropriate. However... This is a remodeling job and the new floor has been constructed and will be covered with 2 layers of 5/8 Exposure 1 underlayment plywood. However, there remains a ~2 inch wide band around the edges of this floor that consists of the old 1/2 inch thick subfloor (exposure rating questionable). It does show some cracking and splitting. It is well supported directly on the underlying headers and joists but may not be suitable for direct application of mortar. I know that luan and hardboard is unsuitable as an underlayment for ceramic tile when installed using thinset mortar, but would 1/8 inch marine plywood be acceptable? Is it even available? Or can the level be brought up 1/8 inch using a floor leveling compound? Can these compounds be applied over this questionable plywood or is there a sealant that can be applied to the plywood to assure compatiblity with mortar? This tile has a rough underside so I don't think that mastic is an alternative to the thinset. Thanks for your help and sharing your knowledge.
Dear KEN Z.:

Why not use Schluter Ditra matting, it is 1/8" thick and is a crack suppression membrane as well as an underlayment. First prep the subfloor with sanding if needed to make it level and further screwing down if needed. Your welcome, DK.
question Michael 
Jan-25-2004 14:43

For question 6170. Thanks so much for your generous time in answering my question. The color that I am searching for is delorean grey. I perceive by what you wrote that every store that labels there colors by a name like delorean grey they will all be the same color and not be allittle bit lighter or alittle bit darker. Thanks for clearing this up tileman. Mike

I believe that Delorean Grey #165 is one of the colours from Custom Building Products, also in SANDED.
question FLA-Terri 
Jan-25-2004 11:38

Hi Tileman, re: our original communication in #6193, the backsplashes were more or less sitting right on the laminate countertop, no gap in between. So when I pulled off the backsplashes, it pulled off a strip of the countertop. I'm not sure I want to tile the countertops, is my best choice for now to replace that 1/2" strip that is missing?

In such a situation, there is little else possible. It may look odd to try to match so that a solid colour may work best, like black. Simultaneously, you could exttract a section or two from the countertop and insert coordinating squares or pattern.
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