I answered on my IMac earlier today but don't see my reply on the forum after I booted up my PC laptop. It is stored in Word and I will resend it tomorrow after I return home. Sorry. Armen Tavy

To begin with, most customers shy away from an hourly rate for work  because of "Goldbricking" fears. Besides it's hard to justify an honest hourly rate to a customer, for a trade that's as hard as ours The proper way to price a job is to use two methods, time and material (plus at least 15% for related pick up and handling time, (if you can get it). Be honest with yourself in "guess-ti-mating" the time and how much you value your time per hour then, add the material cost. Next figure the job by the square foot price and add any prep work required. In either case, itemize and add for: cuts, doorways, trims, borders, diagonal, electrical outlets and any other detail or prep work you are asked to do or plan to do. Not to single out Dentists but, do as they and other professionals do, and itemize everything on your "work sheet" buy pricing the material costs and your normal labor per square foot, then add 10% to your figures "ONLY" on the final total for a comfort margin because, we in this trade, usually do more than is expected. Compare the two "bids", they should be in very close proximity to each other. You may loose a few jobs, but the ones you do get, should not "short change" you. "NO One" should work for free. Be professional and assertive; don't "hem and haw", be convincing about your talents and pride in workmanship and never bargain with your labor. If a customer can get you to bid the job lower, it really means that you were overbidding the job to begin with, and that does not convince the customer that you are a professional. Bargain with materials and maybe a "GO-FER" or two, but not your "living wage" for “Hard Work”. This advice is not something that should be hidden from prospective customers on this forum, it should be respected and honored because, short cuts/cutting corners and having to do a job over is more expensive for both parties than an honest "bid".  Agree up front on what your bid entails and leave a large space in the lower section for “signed” and “dated” "change orders" that differ from “your work to be preformed clause/s“ in your “proposal  and your "contract” to do work. A deposit, usually 10% minimum by law in most localities, and up to a 33 1/3% if the customer is willing. A minimum 25%+ deposit and Full Payment of the balance for materials on delivery day is common. This allows for a re-stocking fee and handling should they change their mind after you have purchased and picked up the materials. On jobs that may last more than a week, “Friday” is always “payday”, and payment by cash or a check made out to “YOU” personally, with the word, “or” plus “your business name”, drawn on a LOCAL bank, of a percentage equal by proportion to the estimated time in weeks of the total job. Tell them up front that you intend to leave the job at a decent time on Fridays so you can cash their check at their local bank. Once you “are burned” several times by others, you have the right to ask present customers to add, “I will not stop payment on this check” on the endorsement line, on the back of the check, and have them sign it. I hope this helps you and others as well as potential customers who may need the services of a professional. NOTE: Keep the job site and customers home clean (dust protection) and pick up your own mess,….. DAILY. Armen Tavy

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You are right on. I went on line and read reviews on this new material. If in fact it is “paperless”, that would be good. "Organic" laden materials have no place in a wet environment. As we all know, new products need “the test of time” before they are accepted by tile setters who have to put their “personal” guaranty on an installation, even if the owner did/does the prep work. “YOU TILE IT, YOU OWN IT”. I as an inventor am not about to knock another man’s “dreams”. Time will surely tell. “Cementitious Boards” have passed the “test of time” for over 45 years providing “it” and everything else is installed properly.  Armen Tavy “TIRTGIM”

Every retailer should have “wear rating information” available for every floor tile they sell. "Brand" names can be "Googled" and wear ratings should be available on their respective sites. Generally speaking, "floor tiles" for residential applications fall into 3 categories, #3 is light, #4 medium, and #5 (commercial) is heavy.   Light: bare feet, socks, and “soft" sole slippers, in family bathrooms.   Medium: bedrooms, dining areas, sunrooms, laundry rooms, sewing room, study, etc.   Heavy: Entry, front or rear; kitchens, “mud” rooms, work shop, garage, front or rear stoops, and porches. #5 is best for any area where entering, walking, standing, and shuffling while wearing shoes.    In the 60s thru the 70s and 80s, #4 was the norm for residential use, and floor tile wear pattern complaints, in the "high traffic areas" of a home, became a serious issue. #4 Could be used in living room "surrounds", powder and guest bathrooms.    Traffic patterns: A visible wear in "walkways" (hallways to and from rooms) and in front of refrigerators, stoves, and sinks where “shuffling” is normal. #3 and #4 ratings should be avoided in these areas; Shoes with leather soles and/or heels should be removed in areas with a less than #5 rating. Porcelain Tiles are extremely popular these days because of their inherent “wear” resistance. Armen Tavy