spacerman@tavytools.com

JOYCE,

Please be aware that I am having incoming e-mail issues since 6-21 via "spacerman". Please re-send photos to armen.tavy@tavytools.com in the interum.

Thanks, Armen

As of 11:30 pm Pacific Time on 6-25-2010 spacerman@tavytools.com is working again

Nice to hear from you again Joyce. There are several Acids purposely designed for cleaning ceramic and Porcelain tiles; however, these acids "MUST” be used properly and NEVER used full strength. The container "MUST" also state that it can be used for ceramic tiles. Some Porcelain tile packages state: "no acid cleaning". "MURIATIC ACID" should never be used on ceramic tiles, especially Porcelain. Glaze that is chipping on the edges of a tile could also be a result of excessive wear other than normal foot traffic, as from furniture legs, children's toys, etc. and if the problem is in a kitchen area, it could be from continuous dropping of utensils and other kitchen related instruments, etc. If the tiles were rated #3 (light wear, sock, bare-feet, slippers) as in “NO or VERY limited “Shoe Traffic”, this light wear classification could be suspect.

“After 2 years” can also raise price and quality issues. An average tile can be pounded on once, twice, thrice, etc. without breaking or chipping it, but repeated “poundings/droppings over 2 years on or near the same “spots”, could cause any tile to fail at its outer edges, which are the more susceptible areas, especially if the grout joints are "very low" in relationship to the surface of the tiles.

A photo(s) would help. Armen

The Depots, the Lowe's, the Menards, etc of the world generally close out items they are discontinuing at an attractive price to "dump" the balance of the inventory. The odds of any one company purchasing remaining inventory that are in very small lots are rare, but not impossible. Who are they? only the Depot would know.

I have suggested in the past a workable solution that will take some effort on your part, but would save you quite a bit of money if your are willing, and that would be to replace one full tile inward from the perimeter tiles in your installation and replace them with a contrasting tile to create a feature strip around the entire room. However, care must be take when removing tiles so adjacent tiles that will remain are not accidentally chipped during tile removal. My suggestion is to remove all the grout along the outer edges of the tiles you would remove to prevent this possibility. Efficient electric grout removing tools are  avilable today in the big box stores in the + - $100 range.

Once the grout is removed you should enlist a helper, that is wearing eye protection, to hold a large putty knife or 12" dry wall taping knife firmly against the field tiles" that will remain. Of course you must also be careful when removing enough of the full tiles you will be replacing so they can be re-used to replace the tiles that are ruining the appearance of your floor. If your project is in a kitchen and you only need two or three tiles, this small quantity can usually be salvaged from under a refrigerator or even more from under a stove. The fact that you even have some broken tiles may indicate that the installation system was not up to par and salvaging tiles may be easier than you think. Need more help with tile removal "tips and tricks"? Write again.

Why no one answers your e-mail does not reflect well on the Depot's loyalty to their customer base, or it could be that they get so many requests like yours that they would have to hire someone full time just to handle that chore, and with cutbacks in extra expenditures these days, it could be a reason for the oversight. It would still be a "lame" excuse for such a large corporation to ignore your reasonable request. I would at least expect an automated "generic" reply to questions such as yours; however, the word is out now in our forum, and you "might get lucky"!! Keep those fingers “xed”, Armen Tavy

"Mortar" as used by a brick mason, will not stick to this slab on its own, and if you are not an experienced "brick mason" do not attempt to install the tiles in this manner. It is obvious to me that the installer did not prep the slab before installing the tiles and the odds are that he did not use a "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar" for the project as recomended for exterior tile installations. Clean and vaccume the exposed slab, skim coat the area with the "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar, let it dry to the touch, and then tile re-tile with the same mortar skim coating the slab just before spreading the setting bed again using the correct trowel (1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4"). In outdoor applications, it is always prudent to skim coat the back of the tiles just before their installation. Armen Tavy

A professional tile setter could easily get around this issue by filling in the deeper cavity by "screeding" in a "dry pack" thick enough to make up for the difference in thickness. Allowances for "White Thin-Set" must be accounted for.

A "dry pack" can be made up of 3 parts "play sand" and one part Portland cement. The dry ingredients should be thoroughly mixed before adding water to the mixture. The "dry pack" should be damp, not "wet". The selected area should be packed tight with the "dry pack. A "screed stick" can be made out of scrap of plywood about 6” long and 3' wide (so you can hang on to it) about 1/2" to 3/4" thick in the shape of a "T" with the leg of the "T" just long enough (or short enough) so it leaves behing enough of the filler required to solve the depth problem. The width of the "T" should be about a 1/2" inch shorter than the + - 3" width you need so the screed stick can be jiggled up and down perpendicular to the space and at a rapid rate to top off the filler and compress it at the right height at the same time. Just before the "dry pack" is installed (screeded), the area to receive the "dry pack" must be "painted" with thin-set mortar, or the "Dry pack" will not bond to the substrate.

Excess "dry pack" is washed off the adjacent ceramic tiles as necessary. Let the dry pack harden before proceeding with the installation of your glass tiles. Make allowances for the width of the glass tiles by substituting a piece of wood long enough and wide enough to replicate the width of the glass tile "feature strip" so you can complete the walls before attempting to install the glass tiles.  Good Luck, Armen Tavy aka "Spacerman"

You usually do get what you pay for but there are exceptions. Merrazzi is a well-known brand and I certainly would address the retailer, as well as Merrazzi, on this wide variance in sizing. It is possible to install tiles that vary up to a 1/8" difference but 1/4" is double that threshold. In cases where there were enough variances in a tile that I have installed in the past, I actually measured ever single tile in the purchase into two piles and depending on the count of each pile I would mark the lesser of the two with a felt tip marker or a piece of masking tape to visually signify each tile during the installation. I would then select from the pile with the smaller tiles and intermittently install them surrounded with a larger width tile spacer. For instance, if the tiles varied in size by the 1/8" maximum, I would use a 1/8" spacer and use a 3/16" to balance the smaller tiles by installing eight of my 3/16" TAVY Tile Spacers "upside down", that is with the straight side of the spacer down, one about an inch in from each corner of the smaller tiles.

The thing to remember is that tiles that are placed closer together to adjust for a size difference are more obvious than tiles that have a slightly wider joint around them. As you can well surmise, jumping from a 3/16 to a 1/4" to apply the same technique would be too obvious for anyone’s "visual" taste. If you cannot return the tiles for a credit towards a new selection then I would recommend discarding the tiles with the lesser count. If there are enough think of another project in your home where they could be used. For instance, think about tiling the bottoms of your kitchen cabinets, or make a border around the room with the tiles staggering the grout joints so they do not have to match the field tiles. Count the tiles in each of the piles to see which one has the right count to do this; or "smash" the tiles and use the broken pieces in a "collage" in place of the troublesome tile/s in a random placement during the installation.  You would of course "plan ahead" for either of these scenarios, as well as softening the edges of the broken pieces with a tile sanding stone for the "deco" collage.

Being creative can solve many problems, so put that “thinking cap on”. Get back with your solution so we can all learn from your experience. Armen Tavy

The white residue, as you call it, is grout haze. It is a residue film left by the Portland cement that is part of the grout mix. Whoever did the final washing of the tiles evidentally did not rub of the grout haze off with rags when it was "green", and that "green" period was aproximately + - 1-hour after the final grout wash.

The process to remove this haze, that becomes not so noticeable  when it is in a wet stage and terrible looking when the haze dries, is to purchase a Grout haze remover "toot suite"; that is as fast as your legs can get you the tile store. This "acidic compound" will get the haze off if it has not been left there too long, and providing it is a just a very thin film of residue. Several applications may be necessary if the first one does not work to your expectations. If several washings fail, the next step is to use the remover with the assistance of a razor blade scraper.

There must be a pool of water on the tiles as the residue is scrapped so you do not damage the glaze on the tiles because some Black tiles can be sensitive to a razor's  touch, especially if the grout is sanded. A test tile should be selected in a obscure location of the room. For your sake, I hope the installation is not in the hundreds of square feet. Let me know how you make out. Good Luck, Armen Tavy

After I wrote the above reply, I searched the web for Unibond and find that it is a UK Product and you obviously live there or near there as well. Since I am not familiar with this product I cannot be entirely sure my solution will work at this stage. I would suggest that you contact Unibond at: 01606 593933 to certain that my advice is correct. If Unibond products are as tough as they claim they are, you may indeed be in a "bloody" pickle.

This tile is called a Cove base. They were readily available in 4 x 4" and 4 x 6" size. There is also a Sanitary Cove Base when there are no tiles installed above them. Old-fashioned bathrooms are coming back for the nostalgia and there are some brands that may have what you are looking for; however, it will definitely be an issue if you are trying to match existing tiles. Please be more specific about your project.

If these cove base tiles you are looking for are replacements for broken ones that were installed "incorrectly", please be aware of the "huge" air spaces behind the ones that you may remove and make certain that you "load" the backs of the new tiles with enough mortar that replaces the "air" which is probably made the tiles suseptible to breakage/cracking. Tiles are very fragile unless they are installed properly. Armen Tavy aka “Spacerman”

The minimum wear rating for those surfaces is #4 residential with #5 commercial being the best. Neither of those rated tiles should scratch during a grouting process with a sanded grout. Although rare, Glossy dark tiles in a 12" format could be rated at a #2 or 3# in which case they would need non-sanded grout in the joints or they could scratch during the grouting process or show a wear in high traffic areas. Any contractor "Worth his Salt" should be aware of the ramifications of grouting questionable wear rated surfaces under #4 with a sanded grout. "Can't Pass The Buck" on this one. There is no solution to repair scratches on a glazed tile other than to remove and re-install. 500 to 600 square feet of tile is a substancial loss for both parties involved.  Sorry, Armen Tavy

The rules do say that a contractor should be given the opportunity to correct any installation issues he made; however, in this case and similar cases, you should "Never fall into the quicksand twice"!! NO repairs or corrections should be made to the installation by others until the matter is settled by the state contractors' board or the courts. 20" x 20" tile installations take the skill of an "expert" tile installer with years of experience; No first Timers or "Newbies". Never leave a tile installation unattended unless the installer is "your spouse" and even then you have to tell him what you expect "OR". I hope you took a lot of photos of everything. Armen Tavy

I do not know this tile, but if the "grain" of the pattern is running on a diagonal because of a "repetive" silk screening process, then every corner could have what you are calling 1/4th of a medallion, also referred to as a "dot". However, you are also saying that 12 tiles did not have an obvious "stamp" in a corner which contradicts my explanation. In any event, it is the installer’s responsibility to check every single tile purchased for an installation to assure that shade variations, if any, are "blended" during the installation. It is sad to say that many installers today still open a box of tile and start installing without inspection. Excuses are not acceptable, especially if there are obvious shade variations of tiles “clumped together” in the installation.

The "Old Disclaimer" that "Shade Variations are Inherent in Ceramic Tiles" must still be anticipated today even though we have better manufacturing methods. A diagonally set floor installation is more labor intensive but is always "worth it”. Lippage and uneven tiles are not the norm, and if the installer had used my TAVY "Tile Puck" he could have avoided the problem. 18" tiles are more difficult to install than smaller tiles. As a matter of fact, the larger the tiles get, the harder they are to install "flat". Care must be taken as well to insure that there is enough mortar under these larger tiles to properly seat them. Bullnose edges would not have helped this installer and he should re-think his tiling techniques by enrolling in a “Certification Course” sponsored by the "NTCA" (National Tile Contractors Assn).

Depending on the state you reside in, the rules of workmanship can vary. California licensed installers must be bonded and the state will reimburse "losses" and debit the contractor. The fact that this installer also provided the tile, and obviously made some profit on the sale, compounds his responsibility to you. If he charged you a sales tax pocketing the money and not reporting it to the tax collector, he is also in violation with the state tax board. Call your state contractor licensing board or call your attorney, you do have a valid claim here. Good Luck, Armen Tavy

Re-grouting where the tub meets the floor can be an endless task if the tub is moving in, out, and/or up and down on its own, and tubs can and do move, even if they are cast iron and weigh 300+ lbs if they are not secured properly to the stud wall behind them. In addition, if they are just sitting on the floor without any mechanical support to a wall, or the floor under the tub is “flimsy”, each time you fill the and step into them they can literally move. Just think of the weight at 8 lbs per gallon and your light + - 110lbs. Fiberglass tubs have other issues since their bodies can flex, as can the sides of inexpensive "steel" tubs. Prop your toe, with shoes, up against the tub with your toe slightly raised and against the tub, put pressure on the toe of your shoe to get it down to the floor. If you notice that the tub front flexes in and out with the pressure, there is your problem.

How best to solve it at this stage of the installation is to either refill the grout as necessary or use a flexible colored caulk to match existing grout. PLEASE do not "over caulk", as his is unsightly and not necessary.  If it still continues to cause you to "cringe" every time you look at it, you could go to your local hardware store and purchase a white colored peel and stick vinyl strip about ½+ inches tall that is designed to solve these kinds of issues and apply it to the tub's front overlapping the annoying grout joint. Armen Tavy

Well the tile may be new but it could be old and was stored in a "dank" basement or warehouse. Seriously, I never though about or had the occasion to "smell" the back of a tile; however that does not mean that you do not have an issue, it just means that I have no explanation that I can think of other than the "rediculous" one I mentioned in my opening sentence. I am open to comments from others, and be nice!! Armen TAvy

You certainly get what you pay for in Diamond Saw Blades, and will a less expensive electroplated blade work for 1100 feet? I would have to say yes. A 10" tile saw will accept a 6 or 8" blade as long as the hole diameter for the arbor is the same and normal is 5/8". All you have to do is release the pressure on the blade up and down adjustment screw/knob. If it is an old saw with a lot of dry overspray on the adjustment at the "fulcrum point" a 3 or 4 ft long 2 by 4 may be necessary to "break" the "corosion".  A saturation at the adjustment juncture with WD 40 may also help. Do a good job and, "Finish With A Smile".  Just for the record, I paid about $400 for my blade and that was 15 or 20 years ago. Armen Tavy

Those kind of words, "Make my day". You are welcome. Armen

Right now it is 1:38 AM Saturday morning June 5^th, 2010 and I am going to bed early tonight, Sure! I also answer questions on: www.thetiledoctor/forum.com and between the two forums, plus phone call and e-mail questions, life can be hectic at 77 and with another birthday coming in October will I ever slow down? I doubt it right now, but it is because I love what I do, a passion for a very personal rewarding trade, and if you, on this new venture in these hard times are not dedicated to the task at hand, you should not quit your day job yet. Having said all that, welcome to the world of "Tile Setters", the place where you never know how much you will make this week, next week, or this year; but it is a world of "Beauty In the eyes of the beholders". In the 43 years, as "a hands on tile setter/contractor", before I became an inventor of tile tools, I only advertised once in the local yellow pages in 1967. I gave it up after that first year because I wasted a lot of time on "Looky Lews". Word of mouth became the best advertising tool, but you have to get jobs to create that word of mouth advertising, and that is a “Catch 22”.  The best place to start would be at your local tile supplier/s and ask him/them if he/they can find a place for your business cards. Get Fliers that you can distribute in your neighborhood to help get the word out if you can afford them. 

As far as good business practices, the most important is show up after you get the job and always show up "on time" or use your cell phone for a valid explanation should it be something beyond your control, like two broken legs, because you can still get there with one. Cleanliness of your clothing and working habits are big pluses and never leave a job in a "clutter". Never leave a customer with a "mess" that they will assign to another family member. "Barricade" every work area with "dust control" barriers. Remove pots, pans, pictures, book, plants, and anything else that can collect the dust that is inevitable from your work. Always give an estimate in writing and if your state and/or community requires a license, get one, and do not forget to get a liability insurance policy. Do not let customers "fleece you" with extra "by the way jobs" that are not on your performance contract, and make certain you create one before starting the work.

A down payment is just that, it is a payment so you can "bind" the customer into the commitment and give yourself some money to get certain supplies and 10% is normal. Material deposits are separate and they can be asked for "up front" if you can get it, or get part of it with a positive guaranty that you will be paid the balance of the money for the material delivered on the job on the very day that you get it there. Never get involved in two jobs at the same time if you can avoid it, because it will always get you into trouble. Start a job, do not take days off for personal things, and finish it in the allotted time you promised, “Within Reason”. NEVER start a job unless you have ALL the Material necessary to complete it. Keep yourself and your tools clean and in good order. If the job will take more than one day, never leave your the job site or your tools in a sloppy array. Setting up a “worktable” with your tools laid out like a surgeon will get you the biggest "Kudos" you ever imagined. Never talk about personal issues. ALWAYS make money arrangements in your favor with a payment agreement in full on the completion day and if they do not pay in cash, their check must be made out in your name, or in you company name with an OR and your name, so you can "Run to the bank and cash it" before you get home. Tell the customer that you will be doing that, but leave out the running part. Tell your customer that you Do Not Accept checks drawn on an out of town bank and have the customer write on the back of the “LAST” check a promise "not to stop payment on it for any reason" after they have handed it to you as payment for your work. (That is the hardest thing you will ever have to do, besides spending more than you make).

The profession now requires your skills as a tile installer and if you can get Board Certified ("CCTI") by the "National Tile Contractors Assn. it would be in your favor. If you join the assn., they will also help you with installation problems and issues. Always buy the "best" modified mortar never looking for "close out bargains". Always “Key in the Mortar” with the flat side of your trowel. Always follow this and all the other "NTCA" Installation Guidelines and Installation Techniques. Take before and after pictures for a picture "portfolio" in 4 x 6 or 8 x 10s if you can afford them. Take this portfolio on every estimate to impress your potential clients. "Promise the Moon" and then DELIVER IT.

You will have to tighten your belt the first year, especially in these hard times and always set aside a little money “For a Rainy Day”. However, if you are dedicated, as I expect you to be, you can make it in this business, but remember to invert the smarter not harder to: "WORK HARDER AND SMARTER". Always set aside money in a special bank account for taxes which you will have to pay the IRS Quarterly, "DO NOT FAIL TO DO THIS". In addition, remember, there are not many "Rich" tile setters out there because most forget to "follow the rules".

You have now finished your installation and it is time to say goodbye. Get your final payment in cash or check (with that promise endorsement), thank the customer AND get their word that they will tell all their friends, relatives and neighbors about your good work, and you can now use my company motto as yours as well: "FINISH WITH A SMILE".

GOOD LUCK, Armen Tavy aka “Spacerman”, “Puckman”, “Thin-Skinman”, and “Easy to Eliminateman” (My new 008 system)